Helpful Information
Contact Me !!!!!
Randy Marble
marblesmotors@gmail.com
214.686.0044
Bob’s General
Services - Seat covers and restoration
www.bgsmc.yahoo.com
Bob
specializes in seat restoration for almost all bikes. He is
an incredible talent at restoring any damaged seat pans. I
have personally used him for several seats.
Bob's General Service
P.O. Box 103
Baxter, Iowa 50028
or
Bob's General Service
6805 Main Street
Ira, Iowa 50127
Phone 515-490-3804
PAINT
Frame Paint
A recent
breakthrough has allowed me to offer the silver paint that
Honda used for many years directly to you in the form of a
spray can and then the clear coat that goes on top.
This is true automotive grade Deltron PPG paint and you can
get fantastic results with it. I offer this paint as a
kit.
Click
here for more
information.
Engine Cover Paint -
Clutch / Stator / Sprocket
I typically have all my engines disassembled, ultrasonically
cleaned and surfaces restored when doing a restoration.
As a part of the rebuild, the interior engine cases are left
natural aluminum, but the bolt on covers need a special low
metallic silver high heat paint. Whether you are
rebuilding an engine or not, the engine deserves to have a
good detailing and although you can't get it perfect without
a complete disassembly, you can certainly improve the looks
with a thorough cleaning and some paint on those places
where boots scuff and gasoline tarnishes.
Click
here for more
information.
Honda XL250 / XL350 - Engine
Cover Paint - Greenish Gray
I have formulated the color
for the XL250/XL350 Engine side cases and have it packaged
in a spray can. I offer this paint as a kit.
Click
here for more
information.
Honda MT Engine Paint
I have formulated the color
for the MT Honda engines. I offer this paint as
a kit. Click
here for more
information.
FUEL TANK CLEANING / COATING
Our Painting Services
214-686-0044
We offer
the services of cleaning and professionally lining your tank
as a part of a complete paint job. We do not do these
services unless they are attached to a complete job.
Please see Elizabeth Radiator below.
Elizabeth Radiator
412-384-5310
This is
the real deal for cleaning out your old tank. If you
have ever tried the "Kreem" route, you will know how
difficult, messy and actually.... how it will lift off if
the surface isn't perfectly etched. Elizabeth Radiator
offers an alternative where the tank is blasted and then
coated with "Red Coat". This is essentially the same
stuff used on the inside of radiators. It isn't thick
and nasty like Kreem, and it stay's put.
DECALS
I carry a lot of
decals for the Japanese bikes as well as others.
Click
here for more
information.
PARTS
Honda Parts
Call or
e-mail me for your needs. I can beat your local dealer
pricing.
Dr B. Recycle Sales
Recycle@airmail.net
A source
for vintage Japanese motorcycle parts.
Honda Keys
www.hondakeys.com
Here is
where you can get additional keys for your Honda. Just send
Mark the key number from the lock or your key and he will
fix you right up.
Z1 Enterprises
www.z1enterprises.com
Specializing in restoration and replacement parts for the
Kawasaki 900 Z1’s. Jeff Saunders is an incredible resource
and very helpful.
RE-MX
www.re-mx.com
Take a
look at Dan's web page for some hard to find SL70 items.
Headlight Ear Bolts, Reflectors, Side Covers, Side Cover
Grommets, Decals, Carb to Airbox Rubber, Seat Covers, Foot
Pegs etc.
ENGINES
Engine Rebuilder
Send
me your engine and it will come back restored, rebuilt and
ready to install.
TIPS
Front Fork
Disassembly
Use an axle?
Here is a little trick to
take the front forks apart so that you can polish the lowers
and replace the oil seals. Once you have the
fork off the bike, remove the dust seal. Next, use
snap ring pliars to remove the retaining ring. Next
comes the flat washer that is on top of the oil seal.
Once removed, put the front axle back through the lower
hole. Put the assembly down on the concrete floor and
put a foot on either side of the axle and begin pushing down
and pulling back up against the stop. Usually after a
few pops, the top tube and spring will come sailing out to
you. Don't hit your self in the nose.
Here
is a picture of a tool that I made that fits over the
mounting hole in the top of the upper shock tube. I
put this on using the top bolt and use it to push and pull
the tube until the old seal breaks loose.

Front Fork Oil Seals
PVC is your friend
After you have polished
your fork lowers and are ready to reassemble, place the oil
seal on the upper tube and insert it into the lower.
Put the flat washer on top of the oil seal. Now for
the trick. Go to your local hardware store and get
some PVC that is larger inside diameter than the upper tube,
and as near the size of the oil seal as possible. I
usually try to get Schedule 40 PVC as it is stronger.
I also buy a 'cap' for the PVC as this will make this
inexpensive tool last longer. Place the PVC over the
tube and let it rest on the flat washer on top of the oil
seal. I use a rubber or plastic faced mallet to hit
the PVC which drives the oil seal down into the lower tube.
You will know you've hit bottom when you can see the groove
for the snap ring.
Kick Stand Springs
Boooiiiiinnnnggg
Frustrated with trying to take your kick stand spring on and
off? Simple fix: Go to the parts store and
buy a brake spring tool for a drum break car. The end
that takes off the little clips on the drum brakes works
perfectly for taking the spring off. The other
end......which is designed to put springs on works perfectly
for the installation.
Wheel Disassembly /
Spoke Removal
Unless
you are going to try to polish each old spoke by hand to
restore the finish (I don't have that much patience), use a
set of bolt cutters to bust the old ones in half. I
usually go right where the two spokes cross and get
two-for-one results. It is best to take pictures of
your assembled wheels prior to this as the installation of
spokes is somewhat like a Rubic's cube if you don't have a
pattern.
Electrical Tips
Feeding Wiring
Through Small Places
On the
Honda SL's there are a couple of places where wiring must be
snaked through a small area. Examples: The
taillight wiring on an SL70, and the on/off switch thru the
handlebars. I use two things to help.
1)
Use an old piece of wire such as one strand of romex.
This will easily slide through the handlebars. Once
through, use electrical tape to affix it to the multiple
wires and then pull through.
2)
Spray a liberal amount of lithium grease through the holes
before starting to snake the wires through.
On the
taillight wires on SL70's, just do them one at a time and
use some of the lithium grease. It is easier than it
looks. One side of the enclosure gets two wires and
the other gets one.
Ignition Switches on
SL70's
The SL70
K0 and K1 have completely different wiring harnesses and key
switches and they will not interchange. You'll end up
blowing the fuse everytime if you use a K1 switch with a K0
harness etc. Few people know this and when looking at
a used or new switch........especially on ebay, make sure
you are getting the right one. Here's how to tell:
Pull back the large rubber cover and look at the lolor of
the wires. If there is a blue wire, it is for a K0.
If there is a red wire with a white stripe, it is for a K1.
I now have replacement SL70 K0 switches available
Here.
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